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BMW 6HP HW 7591971 and 7591972 TCU Community XDF

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BMW 6HP HW 7591971 and 7591972 TCU Community XDF

This is the community XDF for the BMW/ZF 6HPxx series transmissions with hardware numbers 7591971 and 7591972.

Thanks to:

RBT Tuning and all involved in the developing their public XDF where the vast majority of the tables come from.

BimmerBoost.com for providing major sponsorship and official file hosting.

Twisted Tuning for donating purchased WinOLS files.



For community XDF development discussion, see this thread: http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...-Community-XDF

BMW 6HP HW 7591971 and 7591972 TCU Community XDF

Help needed, I need the Cobb AccessTuner Race software for N54 IJE0S

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Hello everyone,

After around 2 years in which I ran my own custom-made Cobb maps on my RB-Turbo N54 335i, basically forgetting that I have a tune, the need arised to download the AccessTuner Race software in order to prepare a custom valet map from the Cobb's valet map with with my custom boost control tables.

To my huge suprise, it seems that I can't download the ATR software anymore from Cobb.

Does anyone have a previous version of the ATR software for N54 IJE0S ? I would be grateful if you could provide a download link to it.

Thanks !

WGDC drops to zero during light throttle cruise ... why?

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I think this is something new for my car.

Backstory,
April 10th I was at Raceway Park of the Midlands for a fun day Sunday ($60, open track, short course). The track is 360 miles from me. Drove down the day before. Everything felt just fine, 100% normal. Go to the track next morning, still normal. Got on track and made a few parade laps followed by about 6-8 fast laps, then 2 cool down laps. I got off track and shut the car down. Guy I met there had a spinout and I chatted with him for 30-45 minutes. Car cooling with hood open during this time.
It's now getting close to the noon shutdown and we want to get a few laps in before that. So I jump in and start the car. All seems normal, can't hear much through a helmet though.
Get on track and I stab the throttle. No power, no boost. I'm puzzled by this so I try different gears. No change. There is just no power/boost.
So I meander back to the parking lot and proceed to do the typical visual checks, code checks, etc. I don't find anything wrong. I thought for sure there would be a code.

So I let it cool down for a few hours.
Started it a few times during that period to see if anything changed. It didn't. I could tell just by the exhaust note that nothing changed. And the best way I can describe the exhaust is it sounded more like an M3, a but tinny/raspy vs the normal n54 sound.

It's now getting closer to track close time (4pm) and the car still hasn't got better. So I know it's not an overheat problem. Still no codes.
I take it out on the road and just stand on it until something happens. Half engine. Good now I can get a code.
30FF
LOL No $#@! car. But why?

Track closes and I take my chances with driving it home as is. I figured if it's done I'm going to do enough damage to force me to build it.
Surprisingly it drove home just fine. No power and no boost. So long as I didn't get greedy with the throttle the half engine stayed away. Did speed limit only, max 75mph.

Research and testing pointed to bad solenoids.


During the down time 10th up to today, I also installed DP's and RB evo inlets. As well as replacing the solenoids.

Got it running and driving today. During logs my WGDC would drop from 30-40 to zero. This only happens during cruise at low throttle input. I can knock it out of this with a throttle blip. Back to low throttle, doesn't come back. It takes a minute or 2 of steady throttle for it to come back.
No codes other than for the rear O2's. Which was expected.

No my thought is that previously I was working on 1 good solenoid that failed at the track. Now I have 2 good ones and the zero is normal.

I have to pull the logs off my phone. and will post if needed. But I looked and the zeros didn't seem to get caught.


Oh,
current mods are, FBO, MHD E60 tune, stage 3 trans flash. Plugs have 700 miles on them.

Does 2aaf prevent EVAP readiness test?

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I've having a bit of a tough time getting evap readiness despite doing multiple drive cycles. I get the 2aaf code on stage 2+ based maps and am thinking maybe that prevents the EVAP readiness test to perform.

I'm thinking if I go back to stage 0 (and disable 29F4 and 29F5) then I won't get 2aaf since I'm on stage 0 and the EVAP readiness test will run.

Does that sound plausible? Does anyone know definitively if 2aaf prevents the EVAP readiness test from running? Thanks.

Anyone really good with calculating E percent using math

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I have my ethanol tester at home and don't really want to buy one to dunk in fuel tank or pull a fuel line... I used a spreadsheet I found on here and pretty sure i'm correct but wanted to make sure. So I wanted to get into dialing in my car to hopefully dyno either this week or next, and didn't have time to run down the fuel. We wanted a 12 gallon e85 mix but again I couldn't run the tank down further than 3/8 ish (I was able to put 11.1 gallons of e85 in it). Essentially according to my math my 11.1 gallons of E85 added to my previous tank which was 10 gallons E85 and 6 of 93 (total of 5 left in the tank since ours are 16.1) i'm at around an E76 mixture. Since the fuel pumps were keeping up I think we're gonna tune to this mix and i'd just like to know what it is for future fill-ups. If anyones good with this math and willing to help that'd be much appreciated as of right now i've gone in circles and confused myself hahaha

RB Turbo/Bimmerboost giveaway follow up build thread

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Hey guys. Wanted to post an update and sort of a build thread after the Bimmerboost/RB Turbos Giveaway.

My car is an 2007 E90 335xi and I've owned it since Dec 2012 (52k miles). Now at 115k miles it seems as good a time as any to finally upgrade the turbos (especially considering the circumstances :naughty:). Can't thank Rob and Sticky enough for the opportunity. Will be switching over to MHD during this install, with @V8Bait tuning it.

Click here to enlarge

Click here to enlarge


New Stuff/things pictured:
RB Next Gen Turbos w/ High Heat Wastegate Upgrade
RB EVO Style Inlets
RB Oil Drains
New OEM Turbo Oil Feed Lines
RB Turbo Install kit
RB PCV
VRSF Downpipes
034 Motorsports Solid Rubber Motor Mounts
3.5 Bar Map Sensor w/ BMS Adapter
Precision Raceworks Relocation brackets (Power Steering and Coolant)
esb Special ale from Ska Brewing in Durango, CO
Odin - Corgi/Australian Shepard Mix
Leia (as in Princess) - Brindle Boxer/German Shepard Mix



Important stuff currently installed:
VRSF Stepped FMIC
Fuelit S2 Pump
Synapse BOV and charge pipe
PTF E50 Tune on Cobb
DCI
Stock downpipes

Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

As the car sits now:
Times at Bandimere are a big kick in the nuts fyi. Best time 13.05 ET 109mph



Install should be in the next few weeks. I'll follow up once everything is buttoned up and dialed in.
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Possible swap for transfercase and front diff for e90

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So with this new beauty coming out: http://jalopnik.com/the-quad-turbo-b...ati-1794660625

And the fact that it has 560 ftlbs of torque stock, I wonder if it would be possible to swap either the transfercase or the front differential out of one for an E90 to finally get a stronger front diff/transfer case for us XI's.

I'm not sure where to get specs on the ratio in the front diff or if the design of the transfer case is the same or not, but just something to ponder.

Custom 6466 in 35R footprint for BMS 135i

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Hmmm, @Terry@BMS care to comment?

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pure Turbos
In progress: Custom 6466 in 35R footprint for Terry @burger_tuning for his @motiv_motorsport 135i

Click here to enlarge

Cutting out under throttle

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Hey Guys!

Please help me! I have tried everything! I have a FBO stage 2 running vargas turbos... meth, fmic, cobb, stage 3 clutch and flywheel, exhaust.. etc.. its been done...

all new injectors
all new correctly gapped plugs
new coils


******* here is my issue... the car idles amazing! runs great, no skipping no smoke nothing, until i want to get on it.. anything past 30% throttle or so and it spits and sputters, back fires and smokes... let off gas it comes right back to normal... however after it sputters when i come to stop it will smoke heavy blue... and if i get on it hard in first it bangs hard black smoke after a backfire...

my lpfp on cobb reads 70psi at idle and spiked at 85psi when i ran it down road... no WOT i dont have room and it wont allow me to do wot without sputtering..

i feel like its starving for fuel...?! maybe a new lpfp upgrade? or is it maybe a lp sensor?

i am well over 550awhp on the dyno.. stock lpfp and stock hpfp

or could it be tune? or do i need to order yet more parts .. please help me!

DOC Race Turbo Kit with a Pure Turbo 6266 - Twisted Tuning and AWD N54

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Hey all! Waiting on dynojet results but we have some logs and quick video from the customer we wanted to share. Customer is hoping to hit the dyno soon and hook us up with a sweet video. Going for over 700whp, AWD!! This thing will be a beast!!! @PSMitty95 on YouTube and @psmith95 IG




30 PSI Pull before the retune..


Log from Twisted -
Click here to enlarge
Attached Images
 

Transmission whine after 335is/550i clutch + flywheel install

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Hello everyone,

I have a slight issue with my with the my 6MT 335i (N54) after an indy shop installed a new clutch, flywheel and throw-out bearing. The flywheel is a LuK 415037710 unit (identical to stock) and the clutch is a 335is/550i clutch (LuK 624336700).

Car runs fine, clutch feels great (nice to have a soft pedal again after some stiff clutches), but there is a constant whine coming from under the car, from the the clutch + flywheel area. It's not very loud and I don't even think I can record it.

It is present on both neutral and in gear, and it varies with RPM, it is very similar to a supercharger whine. When I press the clutch pedal, the whine disappears, but if the car has some speed and I press the clutch pedal the whine seems to take a while to quiet down, so it is more in sync with the gearbox input shaft than with the engine RPM.

The first thing that comes to mind would be the transmission input shaft bearing, but the strange thing is that the whine appeared immediately after the clutch install, it was not present before. Could this bearing have been damaged during install somehow ? I changed the gearbox oil (with BMW MTF-LT3), issue still remains.

It is worth mentioning that on the N54 transmission, the throwout bearing is in contact with the clutch plate fingers all the time, so it spins all the time (not only when you press the clutch pedal), and so it could also be a cause of the noise. But when I slighltly press the clutch while in motion, the noise does not disappear, so the load on the throwout bearing does not silence the noise which makes me believe it's not it.

Does anyone have an idea on what could it be ?

Thanks !

Help with n54 bin

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Hello.

New member and BMW owner. I owned and tuned some custom FI Hondas and Nissans in my past live and recently acquired an 07 335i as a next DD & spare time project. Love it, recently got MHD and have been poking around the bin in Tuner Pro.

Referencing to some general knowledge and doing lots of reading over the last few weeks I am hoping to get some feedback from folks that know these ECUs better.

Now dialing in boost/anti-lag on EBC like Blitz was cake, never done it via ROM. Aside from amending boost ceiling in bars do I need to touch any other tables strictly for boost and not over boost or lag related controls?

I can't seem to locate any logging software that does load tracing, is there any compatible logging soft or preferably live emulation type soft that logs or traces cells on our fuel/ign maps? Some alternative solutions vs manual way of figuring out where you land on the tables at x psi, etc?

Knock feedback, can knock sum(or however bmw does it) be logged? Can one disable knock based retard by just going 0 on max. knock correction tables?

Maybe just old platforms I am used to, but you can typically optimize maps for load per say. If oem map was optimized for -20 vac and 8 psi in boost, you generally re scale it to match 18 psi you run now within current load values(max typically based on map/maf you run). Where can I locate existing scales of rpm and load values? Do ignition and fuel maps have separate scales within the .bin or one master? Is the load value calculated the same for fuel and ign?

Thanks again, look forward to feedback!

Tuning with Motiv Boost Box

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Does anyone have the tables needed to tune with the motiv boost box?

BUYERS BEWARE JP WORKS

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Just want to share my experience with Jerry at JP works so hopefully no one else has to go thru the same thing I have had to AKA not have my car operational for 4 months wile waiting on my manifold.

2/4/17 ordered manifold with jerry
2/27/17 was told manifold was almost complete
4/3/17 was told manifold was shipping that week
4/25/17 was told manifold was shipping 5/2/17
5/2/17 was told manifold was shipping the following day 5/3
5/5/17 no response since Thursday and he didn't even give me an updated shipping date.

at this point I'm done waiting and plan to take a different route. be careful if you order from jerry you could be waiting a long time and you wont really know when your manifold is going to show up even when he promises a shipping date.

screen shots of our conversation if any one would like proof


Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge
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Precision Raceworks Ignition System Upgrade (Releases this month)

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Click here to enlarge
Precision Raceworks is proud to announce the upcoming release of yet another product
Plug and Play Ignition Coil upgrade!
$479.99


Click here to enlarge


We have data going back over a year on these coils and testing under many conditions. These are NOT an off the shelf coil, they are designed in house and manufactured to our specifications. They look similar to the AEM “Dumb Coils” or the IGN-1 coils as well due to the fact we all based our coil design off the same Mercury Boat coil. There are also CDI versions of this coil (please do not use them by mistake!)


While we considered and tested MANY off the shelf coils including the popular LS Truck coil and other smart coils this truly is the best coil possible for your BMW.


Click here to enlarge


Coils are all designed with goals in mind, short duration coils have very low ohm loads (<0.3ohm) so they draw current quickly to saturation and discharge quickly making them great for high revolution motors. You commonly find these in your more exotic cars such as Lamborghini’s, Ferrari's, and other high rev sport cars. This is necessary for cars running above roughly 8,000RPM red line. These cars have less time to charge due to the higher RPM and shorter time to discharge as well. In addition they must maintain duty cycles low enough to not cause premature failure due to excess heat buildup. The downside is you get a very short spark duration with very low current output from secondary winding but in this high of RPM that is all there is time for.


On the opposite end of the spectrum you have your popular LS Truck coils which have very high ohm loads (1ohm). These coils are capable of great dwell time, great spark duration, and high current output from secondary winding. However with these coils taking so long to charge to saturation by design they would never be able to charge before being fired in a high RPM car such as the ones mentioned above. For this reason these coils are ideal, for lower RPM cars such as push-rod V8’s and muscle cars.


We decided with the standard 7,000 red line of the N54 & N55 motors which are generally tuned to a maximum of 7,500 red line the BMW community could benefit greatly from a coil designed specific for them. You are able to obtain the right dwell time to charge the coil while still maintaining a very low duty cycle resulting in extremely long lasting coils (With tuning changes to spark control such as single spark 8,000 RPM can be met with full dwell on race builds). You are able to benefit from extended spark duration ever so slightly shorter than that of the LS Truck coil at the same ideal 3.5ms dwell time your car needs. At this dwell time you put out 2.68x the amount of current the LS coil puts out at 3.5ms dwell.


In addition our coils are designed with .5 ohm primary resistance to match the .5 ohm primary resistance of the factory BMW ignition coil that came in your car. To your DME our coil looks exactly like the stock coil. You will get all of the same information the DME monitors just as if it was the factory coil. This also means you do not need additional electronics like you would for running a smart coil such as the LS or other smart coils on the market.


Since the ideal dwell for our coils is 3.5ms and OEM coil dwell time is 2.4ms we have teamed up with [USER=8]@Martial@MHD[/USER] providing all the tables to offer a simple flash solution. This solution increases dwell, disables emissions tables that only limit charge time & generate extra heat in the coil. These changes also decreases demand on components within the DME. By disabling these emission sparks you also extend the life of both your ignition coil and plug. What this means is you get a solution that functions like factory, has very minimal points of failure, is very efficient, but performs as well at idle as it does cranking out 1,000+ whp!


Our system resolves misfire issues for both stock and high performance BMW’s. No need for constant replacing of coils due to insufficient design and heat soak found in pencil coils. No more small gaps on your high horsepower race car either. These coils can jump the gap and have the current and duration to eliminate misfires once and for all.


We even went so far as to test these coils on a car with 68k on the plugs that had misfire issues in multiple cylinders and found it not only removed all misfires but also resulted in a more smooth and quite idle!


So it doesn’t matter if you Race or just Daily commute, this ignition system is the solution to all of your coil frustrations!


Production is already in progress and you can expect to see these kits shipping around the end of this month!


We will be providing specifications and pricing on our website soon, if you have any questions as always feel free to contact us we are glad to help!

Here are a couple teaser pics :)

Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

We have had many people contact us wanting to place orders already as the word spreads. We really don't like selling a product until we have inventory on the shelves seems like bad business to us. We expect release date to be around the end of the month based on current status of production.


We have an email list to be notified since these will sell very quick, so if you want the best shot at getting a kit out of the first batch please click on the image below and request to be added to our mailing list for the ignition system. You will be notified as soon as product is in hand so that you can place your order. The first batch is being sold first come first serve so get them while you can. If not you are looking at roughly 6 weeks before batch 2 comes in.
Attached Images
        

BMW 6HP HW 7591971 and 7591972 TCU Community XDF

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BMW 6HP HW 7591971 and 7591972 TCU Community XDF

This is the community XDF for the BMW/ZF 6HPxx series transmissions with hardware numbers 7591971 and 7591972.

Thanks to:

RBT Tuning and all involved in the developing their public XDF where the vast majority of the tables come from.

BimmerBoost.com for providing major sponsorship and official file hosting.

Twisted Tuning for donating purchased WinOLS files.



For community XDF development discussion, see this thread: http://www.bimmerboost.com/showthrea...-Community-XDF

BMW 6HP HW 7591971 and 7591972 TCU Community XDF

Help needed, I need the Cobb AccessTuner Race software for N54 IJE0S

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Hello everyone,

After around 2 years in which I ran my own custom-made Cobb maps on my RB-Turbo N54 335i, basically forgetting that I have a tune, the need arised to download the AccessTuner Race software in order to prepare a custom valet map from the Cobb's valet map with with my custom boost control tables.

To my huge suprise, it seems that I can't download the ATR software anymore from Cobb.

Does anyone have a previous version of the ATR software for N54 IJE0S ? I would be grateful if you could provide a download link to it.

Thanks !

WGDC drops to zero during light throttle cruise ... why?

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I think this is something new for my car.

Backstory,
April 10th I was at Raceway Park of the Midlands for a fun day Sunday ($60, open track, short course). The track is 360 miles from me. Drove down the day before. Everything felt just fine, 100% normal. Go to the track next morning, still normal. Got on track and made a few parade laps followed by about 6-8 fast laps, then 2 cool down laps. I got off track and shut the car down. Guy I met there had a spinout and I chatted with him for 30-45 minutes. Car cooling with hood open during this time.
It's now getting close to the noon shutdown and we want to get a few laps in before that. So I jump in and start the car. All seems normal, can't hear much through a helmet though.
Get on track and I stab the throttle. No power, no boost. I'm puzzled by this so I try different gears. No change. There is just no power/boost.
So I meander back to the parking lot and proceed to do the typical visual checks, code checks, etc. I don't find anything wrong. I thought for sure there would be a code.

So I let it cool down for a few hours.
Started it a few times during that period to see if anything changed. It didn't. I could tell just by the exhaust note that nothing changed. And the best way I can describe the exhaust is it sounded more like an M3, a but tinny/raspy vs the normal n54 sound.

It's now getting closer to track close time (4pm) and the car still hasn't got better. So I know it's not an overheat problem. Still no codes.
I take it out on the road and just stand on it until something happens. Half engine. Good now I can get a code.
30FF
LOL No $#@! car. But why?

Track closes and I take my chances with driving it home as is. I figured if it's done I'm going to do enough damage to force me to build it.
Surprisingly it drove home just fine. No power and no boost. So long as I didn't get greedy with the throttle the half engine stayed away. Did speed limit only, max 75mph.

Research and testing pointed to bad solenoids.


During the down time 10th up to today, I also installed DP's and RB evo inlets. As well as replacing the solenoids.

Got it running and driving today. During logs my WGDC would drop from 30-40 to zero. This only happens during cruise at low throttle input. I can knock it out of this with a throttle blip. Back to low throttle, doesn't come back. It takes a minute or 2 of steady throttle for it to come back.
No codes other than for the rear O2's. Which was expected.

No my thought is that previously I was working on 1 good solenoid that failed at the track. Now I have 2 good ones and the zero is normal.

I have to pull the logs off my phone. and will post if needed. But I looked and the zeros didn't seem to get caught.


Oh,
current mods are, FBO, MHD E60 tune, stage 3 trans flash. Plugs have 700 miles on them.

Does 2aaf prevent EVAP readiness test?

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I've having a bit of a tough time getting evap readiness despite doing multiple drive cycles. I get the 2aaf code on stage 2+ based maps and am thinking maybe that prevents the EVAP readiness test to perform.

I'm thinking if I go back to stage 0 (and disable 29F4 and 29F5) then I won't get 2aaf since I'm on stage 0 and the EVAP readiness test will run.

Does that sound plausible? Does anyone know definitively if 2aaf prevents the EVAP readiness test from running? Thanks.

RB Turbo/Bimmerboost giveaway follow up build thread

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Hey guys. Wanted to post an update and sort of a build thread after the Bimmerboost/RB Turbos Giveaway.

My car is an 2007 E90 335xi and I've owned it since Dec 2012 (52k miles). Now at 115k miles it seems as good a time as any to finally upgrade the turbos (especially considering the circumstances :naughty:). Can't thank Rob and Sticky enough for the opportunity. Will be switching over to MHD during this install, with @V8Bait tuning it.

Click here to enlarge

Click here to enlarge


New Stuff/things pictured:
RB Next Gen Turbos w/ High Heat Wastegate Upgrade
RB EVO Style Inlets
RB Oil Drains
New OEM Turbo Oil Feed Lines
RB Turbo Install kit
RB PCV
VRSF Downpipes
034 Motorsports Solid Rubber Motor Mounts
3.5 Bar Map Sensor w/ BMS Adapter
Precision Raceworks Relocation brackets (Power Steering and Coolant)
esb Special ale from Ska Brewing in Durango, CO
Odin - Corgi/Australian Shepard Mix
Leia (as in Princess) - Brindle Boxer/German Shepard Mix



Important stuff currently installed:
VRSF Stepped FMIC
Fuelit S2 Pump
Synapse BOV and charge pipe
PTF E50 Tune on Cobb
DCI
Stock downpipes

Click here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlargeClick here to enlarge

As the car sits now:
Times at Bandimere are a big kick in the nuts fyi. Best time 13.05 ET 109mph



Install should be in the next few weeks. I'll follow up once everything is buttoned up and dialed in.
Attached Images
      
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